"Hello, welcome!"
Posted by RSVP on
I first saw it 28 years ago. And now I was witnessing it again. Amid the violence and mayhem that characterises the Middle East, how can Muslims, Christians and Jews get on together with a smile? It's a real assertion of the good in humanity.28 years ago in Jordan, unknown Arabs without English (and me without Arabic) bought me food and wanted no money; paid my bus fare, took me to a destination, got off with me then went back; a service taxi driver took half fare as that was all I had, then bought my dinner during a three hour trip; a rifle-toting policeman stopped a truck to be my hitch ride; a young man carried my bag to the hotel and left, verging on offended as I offered money. And they all were smiling and joyous in their welcome.
And here I was again in 2008 in Turkey, Lebanon and Syria experiencing the same "hello, welcome" from the local Muslim Arabs. This time though, there were Jews and other Christians in my group - and the Arabs still welcomed us, quite unconcerned about religion or nationality. There were Americans, Canadians and Aussies in the group, men and women, and none of us could be mistaken for locals.
Protestants and Catholics have been known to kill each other. Sunnis and Shi'ites do. All can kill, or be kind. The radicals, politicians, military leaders, extremists might be there on the one hand, but on the other are the 'simple folk.' They are the vast majority that just want to get on with life - and get on with other 'simple folk.'
When the Prophet Mohammed died in 632 AD (the Arabic alphabet does not always have an exact English translation so there are various spellings of place and people names) he did not have a male heir to take over.
Abu Bakr was supported as an important adviser to Mohammed and became the first Caliph. But others believed Mohammed's cousin and son-in-law Ali ibn Abi Talib was the chosen one and should succeed. Human nature being what it is, there were numerous murders as each group sought dominance. This was the formation of the rival Sunnis and Shi'ites and, according to our guide in Baalbek in Lebanon, himself named Mohammed, "there will be no resolution until the new Prophet arrives."
As Islam spread rapidly after Mohammed's death, geography, cultures, races, customs, language, tribal hierarchies and personal influences created more groups within Islam, including Baath, Wahabi and Druse.
Islamic law (sharia) has been modified to suit local needs and desires so that today, Turkey is secular (they are happy whoever you are); Syria is tolerant of all (perhaps less so of Jews) yet supports Hezbollah in Lebanon, itself with a large Armenian (Christian) community; Jordan is very tolerant and, with Egypt, has a peace treaty with Israel; and Iraq is adrift with splits and open warfare among all Islamic group as well as the West (whatever makes the West think there is a solution here is a total mystery!).
Saudi Arabia and Iran are very strict in their observance of sharia, including their own citizens (especially women) and Westerners; and the United Arab Emirates are just happy to take everyone's money so everyone is welcome. Good luck working out Indonesia.
The practice of tattarrus allows the killing of non-combatant Muslims by Muslims - in modern times, suicide bombing - to also kill the Infidel. It seems proponents accept it for political expedience. Opponents quote the Quar'an: "to kill one person is as if to kill the whole human race," and they vehemently oppose terrorism and tattarrus. There is vociferous division within modern Islam and most find it barbarous and anti-Islamic.
Outside the National Museum in Damascus, we engaged a Muslim cleric Sheik. "There is no good purpose in indiscriminate killing, there is no Paradise for the killers," he assured us.
Our group of Christian and Jewish travel writers spoke with Imam Hahbi Mustafa at the Isabey Cami mosque in Turkey. He explained that Islam is a religion of peace and harmony, as described in the Quar'an.
"Those who cause terror and kill are not true Muslims," he declared, with a tear welling as passion overcame him. "God will deal with them in his own time." This message was widely supported as we spoke with Arabic people in other mosques, museums, hotels, border crossings and as we engaged waiting fellow travellers and border security staff. A security officer at the Syria/Lebanon border, declining to give his name, was adamant that only 30-40% of people supported Hezbollah and most wanted peace, even with Israel.
The radicals of Saudi Arabia, Iran, Al-Quaeda and other extremists find little support in mainstream Islam. "I am Palestinian," said our Damascan restaurant host. "I do not like Osama bin Laden and what he does."
Islam is the second largest religion after Christianity. If we comprehend the diversity of race, ethnicity, culture, custom, tradition and history within Christianity - and consider the persecutions amongst Christians over the millennia since Jesus - then we begin to understand the diversity of Islam. Not all Christians are the same. Not all Muslims are the same. Just as there are radical Christians, there are radical Muslims. As there are friendly and kind Christians, there are friendly and kind Muslims.But further, Islam has a tolerance for Christians and Jews (put aside the Israel/Palestine issue) as all three have the same God.
Islam accepts Abraham and Moses and recognises Jesus - but their belief is that Mohammed is the last Prophet, and the last is the one who should be believed and followed. "We are all going to die one day."
Samir, a man we met at the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, questioned almost in disbelief, "why would you not believe Mohammed and go to heaven?" Despite his incredulity, he and his family treated us as if we were his family.
Ishmail, a Lebanese policeman outside our hotel in Baalbek (the city where Terry Waite was kidnapped some years ago) told us, "I love to watch the American planes fly over; I love American people."
Ahmed, our tour guide in Syria, hearing our talks with his countrymen, almost lamented the universal necessity for peace (especially with Israel). The people know the wastage on war materials, the absence of good infrastructure, the carnage of intra-Muslim conflict and the need for a strong economy from tourism - they have seen Dubai and the UAE succeed; they know peace is vital to survival. But the politics are not of the people.
Our experiences in Turkey, Lebanon and Syria were of hospitality, welcoming greetings, smiling services, laughter as we attempted the language. We were inundated with responses like, "we love Americans, not Mr Bush, but American people." It was all I could do to remain Australian.
All we saw and heard confirmed that Islam and its Muslim believers had no issue with Christians and Jews. They were only concerned they would not see us in heaven.
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